🐟 Grilled Hamo (Pike Conger Eel)

Pike conger eel, often referred to as Hamo, plays an essential role in Kyoto's cuisine. It thrives in the seas influenced by warm currents, and several tons are caught annually in the Tango waters. However, most of the Hamo consumed in Kyoto comes from the Seto Inland Sea or the Genkai Sea. Resembling eels or conger eels in shape, some Hamo can reach almost 2 meters in length. The larger ones are often over ten years old. These fish hide in sandy mud bottoms or rocky holes during the day and become active at night, favoring a diet of fish, shrimp, and crabs. With sharp teeth and a fierce temperament, Hamo may continue to move violently and even bite after being caught. Despite this ferocious appearance, the flesh is beautifully white with a delicate flavor. Preparing Hamo can be challenging due to its numerous small bones, but it has become an integral part of Kyoto's cuisine, largely because the resilient Hamo could be transported live to Kyoto from faraway places. Chefs use a unique technique called "honekiri" (bone cutting) to deal with the problematic small bones during cooking. Mastering this method requires skill, and it is often said that a Kyoto chef isn't fully trained until they have learned it. Though it's unclear when Hamo consumption began, a compilation from the latter part of the Edo period titled "Hamu hyakuchin" (Sea Eel Hundred Rarities) lists over 100 Hamo dishes. Traditional dishes such as blanched hamo no otoshi, shabu-shabu, sashimi, and others are still enjoyed today, with grilled Hamo being a standard offering.