🐟 Eel Tofu

In 1756, Lake Nakaumi, which straddles the boundary between the cities of Matsue and Yasugi, suddenly experienced a bountiful catch of eels. Sagoemon, a merchant from Matsue, took notice of the bumper catch and set out to sell eels in Osaka. He put the eels in baskets and left Yasugi Port, carrying them on his back with a balance bar. He transported them via the Izumo Highway to Okayama Prefecture and Osaka, making full use of overland and water routes. It is said that 20 to 30 people formed a convoy and walked through the Chugoku mountain range on a series of rough roads. The route taken by the convoy is also known as “Eel Road” or “Eel Highway,” with traces of it still evident today. Izumo eels are said to have had a great influence on the food culture in Osaka, so much so that at one time the city was flooded with eel restaurants named “Izumo-ya.” Because the idea of opening the belly of a fish is reminiscent of seppuku (ritual suicide), eel shops in the Kanto region serve eels with the back open and the head removed, while eels with the belly open and the head attached are the norm in the Kansai region. This culture of opening the belly is said to have come from Izumo, triggered by large eel shipments. Even today, eels are still eaten in the Izumo region, and are enjoyed in a variety of dishes such as shiroyaki (grilled eel without sauce), kabayaki (grilled eel with sauce), unaju (eel over rice), chirashizushi (scatted sushi), and “eel tofu” cooked Yanagawa hot pot style.